Maintenance of teak furniture:
Through years of experience in the processing of teak to make the most beautiful furniture J&E can give you the best advice to optimally enjoy your beautiful teak furniture.
Teak is a natural product. Therefore, it is natural that the teak can show knots and/or unevenness. This is typical of teak wood. The teak can also contain repair pieces. This is also allowed. Since teak furniture is made from recycled materials, teak pieces can be of lower quality through prior use. This is replaced in Indonesia by putting in pieces of teak. This is part of the sustainable recycled teak furniture.
The teak may have slight shrinkage under the influence of light, humidity and temperature variations. This may cause small cracks to occur in the teak. This is a natural process and not bad. In changing conditions the teak may even close again.
In the case of persistent cracks, the cracks can be filled with liquid wood.
Teak comes from the tropics where there is high humidity. The teak furniture is dried under controlled conditions in Indonesia. Yet it may be that the humidity in the teak is higher than permitted. This can be caused by the transport, among other things. Condensation can occur in a container causing the furniture to become damper than permitted. In the Netherlands, the humidity is much lower, especially in the well-insulated Dutch homes with heating and air conditioning. Therefore, make sure that the humidity for maintaining your teak furniture is constant by placing a humidifier or buckets of water in the house, or hanging containers with water on the heating.
How to keep your furniture just as beautiful as it is in the shop:
Since teak is oily, dirt and water are not rapidly absorbed by the wood. As a result, teak lasts longer and is therefore durable. Oil and maintenance products are also not easily absorbed by the wood.
Yet there are a few options for maximum enjoyment from your new teak furniture:
Not treating your teak furniture:
You keep your teak furniture untreated. It will not matter much for teak cupboards and teak dressers. Especially intensively used teak furniture, such as teak tables will increasingly take on a life of their own. The surface becomes smoother with use, the natural oil comes up, the teak will be somewhat darker and you will see traces of use. If you, however, think that the traces of use are becoming too much and you want to clean the furniture, you can do so with soft soap, soda or linseed oil. These products are greasy and will not remove the natural oil from the wood. You can dissolve the product in water and wipe the table with a damp cloth. Never use other cleaning products. Detergents such as all purpose cleaner or washing up liquid degrease and thus will remove the natural oils from the upper layer of the teak. As a result, the upper layer will become somewhat porous, so that grease and dirt are more likely to penetrate into the table. It is possible to lightly sand your furniture. Do this with sandpaper with a grid as fine as possible. If the sandpaper is too coarse then the teak hairs will stand upright. This will cause the furniture to quickly become dirty again. The smoother the surface is, the better protected your furniture is.
Treating your teak furniture:
If you want to treat your furniture there are a few options:
C Tree Oil (Structuurolie)
D Natural Woodprotector
* If the furniture has already been in use, you can clean the teak wood with linseed oil or soft soap. For stubborn dirt, you can lightly sand the surface.
* Touch up cracks or unevenness with a wood filler if desired. Preferably one with a natural colour that is closest to teak wood. Let this dry properly.
* Sand the surface lightly.
* Dust the surface and apply the desired treatment to the wood. Let this dry properly.
This is a colourless, 2 component water-based hard lacquer with a high protection layer. With this the teak gets an optimal nearly invisible protection without the untreated teak becoming discoloured.
Processing instructions for Natural Woodprotector:
The untreated teak wood must be clean. Sand the teak surface to be treated with sandpaper with grain P150-P180. Then dust it well.
Stir the mixed lacquer well, then let the mixed lacquer rest for 15 minutes, but use the mixed lacquer within 2 hours.
Caution! Only mix the quantity with the right amount of hardener that is necessary to treat the teak wood surface once.
Apply the lacquer thinly with a lacquer roller or a brush. The first layer can be painted over after 4 to 6 hours. Slightly sand the surface again with sandpaper P280-P320. Dust the teak surface, and then you can apply the second coat by carrying out the above steps again.
The teak surface can hold light loads after 16 hours and heavy loads after 6 days.
Maintain the lacquered surface at least twice a year with Mat Polish.
Black stains can occur if used on brushed Kasar teak. This is because the teak that is used is recycled teak. There can always be holes in the wood with dirt inside. The lacquer cannot flow into each hole causing there to be a closed layer over the wood that does not bond 100% in all places. The dirt in the teak wood is pushed out of the wood by the oily substances, but cannot move because there is a closed layer
on top and this causes the black blue stains.